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Duffle Coat

  • 2015-01-14
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北風を従えたコート

The North Wind and the Sun - Duffle Coat


 

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 その昔に、資材として荷箱の内張りに使われていた厚手のウール地は、丈夫で水に強いこともありダッフルコートへと姿を変えていきました。このコートは胸を張って着るのではなく、肩に乗っけて身体を覆うように着ます。とても簡単な作りながら暖かく、何よりその使い勝手の良さから伝統的なコートとして今も親しまれています。

 

 第二次世界大戦終結と同時に、イギリス軍は大量のダッフルコートを民間に放出しました。制帽の上からでもすっぽり被れる大きめのフードを持ったコートは人気を集め、遠くアメリカでさえこれを模した製品が作られるようになります。太番手の紡毛を使い目が詰まった生地は、縮絨されずに毛足の長い起毛がかけられています。羊毛本来の固さやごわつきが残るものの、粗野なウール地は着込むほどに柔らかさを増し、その重さも手伝って見事なドレープを生みだします。そして、コートの内側に付いたストラップに脚を通せば、北大西洋に吹く凍てつく風に裾を巻き上げられることもありません。

 

 大きなレンズを通して明滅する灯台の明かりは、見張台に立つ水兵の目にもしっかりと届きます。そのシャギーな毛先に波しぶきをたたえながら、彼もまたキャメル色のコートに身を包むのです。

 

 

  Originally applied as lining on wooden ammunition boxes to serve as a cushioned buffer, the coarse and dense fabric known as duffle was eventually used in garment production with the rise of the 'duffle coat'. Introduced during an era when military clothing began leaning toward snug fits to portray a sophisticated presence, the duffle coat was rather lenient with space, giving ample room in the torso where both shoulder points slightly drop. The functional yet uncomplicated nature of the coat allowed it to soar in popularity, and is globally recognized as a traditional winter coat.

 

  Following World War II, the British Military dispersed a vast amount of the duffle coat to the civilian population. The coat proved to be particularly advantageous for children, who would layer the loose fitting coat with the oversized hood over their school uniforms. The rise in popularity soon grew beyond the United Kingdom, and would eventually lead to the manufacturing of the exact design for the civilian market in the United States. Duffle fabric use a thick yarn, often woven at a high density and brushed up upon completion. Although typically characterized as being stiff, wool fabrics tend to soften with repeated wear. The heavy weight fabric conforms and drapes the body, as if the material and design of the coat were crafted in unison. The two straps stitched into the liner of the jacket are meant to wrap either leg, providing protection for the military men on deck against the harsh winds of the North Atlantic Ocean.

 

  The coast lights flash from the lens of the lighthouse, gently watching the ships on the horizon come and go. The shaggy wool fabric keeps the port men dry from the splashes of seawater, as the dusty, camel, brown coat will continue to serve its duty.

 

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Duffle Coat - Light House





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  • |Posted at 15/01/14